Carreg Cennen Castle, a history of the stunning remains

Here we take a look at the castle and its long history.

There is evidence that prior to the castles we know of being on the site, it was occupied by Romans as coins from the period and four prehistoric skeletons were unearthed during archaeological excavation at the site.

There is legends that state the original castle was built in the Dark Ages and held by Urien Rheged, Lord of Iskennen and his son Owain. Both are linked to King Arthur and were said to have been knights.

It is believed the first castle on the site was built by Prince of Deheubarth, Lord Rhys, in the late 12th century.

The castle was inherited by Rhys Fychan, his great grandson but he was not in control for long as his mother Matilda de Braeos, a Norman, betrayed him and gave the castle to the English. Rhys Fychan was able to regain the castle in 1248 but his own uncle Maredudd ap Rhys Gryg took it from him.

In 1277, the castle was seized by King Edward I and remained in the hands of the English. The stronghold that was built by Lord Rhys was demolished in the late 13th century and King Edward I’s influence was shown in the new castle – creating an imposing structure which remains in part to this day.

The castle was built by John Giffard and his son. During the years, it was owned by Hugh le Despenser, John of Gaunt and the future Henry IV. When he took the throne, the crown then became property of the Crown.

The castle had an unusual and imposing feature to help protect it from attack. There was a huge north-east tower which would be ready for any assault but to even gain access to the castle, anyone wanting to enter – for good reasons or otherwise – had to traverse across deep pits, with the only access being via narrow bridges which could be removed from their supports at any time.

If you were able to get across, you would be met with the twin-towered gatehouse and the strong outer ward made of a stone wall which held stables, workshops and lime kilns.

The gatehouse would provide access to the inner courtyard but before it could be breached, the middle gate tower would have to be taken. Anyone who made it to this point when attacking would be met with arrow flying from the tower.

Picture: Paul Rees

It is believed that the basement of the tower was used as a prison. The gatehouse itself also had a drawbridge, arrowslits, two portcullises, heavy wooden doors, battlements and openings for dropping missiles on attackers (called machicolations).

The octagonal towers would have a ground floor guardroom and access to the upper floors and wall was via spiral staircases.

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In the inner ward there were baking ovens and cisterns which had stone-lined pits and low containing walls to catch rainwater to help with the castle’s water supply. The primary water supply came from the low-lined clay ditch just outside the gatehouse.

The eastern wing held the domestic chambers and held living quarters for the garrison, including a fireplace and latrines. There was also a castle kitchen with a large hearth, buttery and pantry. There was a hall which was heated with a hearth. There was also a small tower which held the chapel and then the lord’s private apartments were located at the back of the eastern wing. There was a fireplace and decorative windows.

The south wall held latrines and two windows and a building but it is not known what the purpose of the building was.

The north-west tower had three arrowslits in the basement and it was the only one with a gunport when it was modified in the 15th century to accommodate the new weapon – muskets.

A limestone cave existed at the south east side of the castle and had a number of pigeonholes in it to either breed for winter food supplies or to house their homing pigeons.

Owain Glyndwr’s rebellion in 1403 caused considerable damage to the castle but it was destroyed later that century as Carreg Cennen was put on the side of the Lancastrians during the Wars of the Roses.

The Yorkists would win the war in 1461 and they destroyed the castle the following year, deeming it too much of a threat to the crown. It is said that after Sir Roger Vaughan captured the castle, it took 500 men four months to dismantle the castle using picks and crowbars.

This wasn’t the end of the castle’s life though. The castle would be owned by a number of people including Sir Rhys ap Thomas and the Vaughans of Golden Grove.

The latter left the castle to the Earls of Cawdor in the 19th century. They held the castle until well into the 1900s, even though in 1932, it was placed under the guardianship of the Office of Works. The Earl of Cawdor carried out extensive restoration during the 1800s.

The castle was most likely intended to remain the property of the Cawdors but in the 1960s, it is said that the Morris Family of Castell Farm ended up in possession due to the Lord Cawdor making a mistake in the wording of the deeds and stipulated the castle was part of the farmlands.

Today, Carreg Cennen – which is located on private land – is maintained by CADW. You can see rocks and the remnants of the outer fortifications.

To enter the castle, you must traverse over the wooden ramps across the deep pits to the gatehouse.

Inside the castle, you can see the remains of a number of buildings along the inner ward walls. Part of the middle gate tower still exists. In the inner ward, you can see the remains of baking ovens and two cisterns.

Part of the hearth in the hall is still visible. You can also see the south curtain and portions of the wall-walk intact. Some remains of a rectangular structure can also be found along the wall.

The aforementioned cave still exists as well and you are able to enter with caution and a torch.